11 September

Sunday, the first day of the week over here and what a busy day for us! We were taken to the Fulbright House at 8:15 this morning. Fulbrighters were joined by a smartly dressed group—a group of young college graduates awarded an EMDAP grant which gives them a special year of business training in Jordan . As the day progressed we learned that they were much better heeled than us. Each one of them gets a car and they all get private apartments. We were told we needed to share. Costs over here have doubled in the last year because so many internationals, especially Iraqis, are coming through and using Amman as a safe place. They have driven up the prices of goods and apartments and are causing huge traffic problems.

We had a busy morning learning about the nuts and bolts of living in Amman. Then the afternoon was spent looking at apartments. Like in Gaza, they are big and cave-like with lots of stone, sometimes marble. The furniture likewise is big. We had talked with James and decided that since the apartments were so big, we could share one with him. When we told Looma, one of our shepherds  at the Fulbright House, she had an idea for us.

Later that afternoon, we went alone to see the new apartment she had found for us. Mrs.Narimane, the wife of an architect from Dubai, offered us coffee and tea and we enjoyed talking with her. This new apartment is a second (maybe a third home as she seems to spend several months in San Diego). It is beautiful with a wonderful kitchen including granite counters and stainless steel appliances. Big windows, beautiful marble floors. Three bedrooms, two ½ baths, several sitting rooms and three balconies. Becky loved it but the boys weren’t so sure as it is sparsely furnished. However, the furniture that is there is lovely. Mrs. Narimane assured us that she would bring more from another house she owns.

The woman has this dilemma which we can sympathize with. She has just built this house and she and her family love it. However, it is only a summer home so she won’t be back until next summer. A realtor has told her that if she finishes it, she can rent for 15,000 JD a year. However, she is not sure she is ready to do all the things that the realtor wants her to and she doesn’t want to leave it to an unknown tenant to mess up. Looma has suggested that she take a lower rent and allow us to take care of it for her. She is not sure what she wants to do. We are supposed to decide how much we will pay and she will decide with her family whether she wants us to have it. 

The other apartments paled in such a comparison. Oh, well, we will wait and see what happens. But we are glad to have seen such a lovely apartment.

We went by Safeway supermarket, picked up some food and had a late supper in our room. We are so tired and ready for bed.

12 September

Another early day at The Fulbright House. Our main shepherd is Alain McNamara, an interesting man, the son of a French mother and Boston Irish Father. He lives in Jordan with his wife, Kathy Sullivan, and daughter. Today, Kathy gave a fascinating talk about the differences between Arab and American culture as well as the rapid demographic, social, and behavioral changes occurring steadily in Amman. (we learned so much but had to leave early as we and Marci (the other American Studies Fulbright Scholar who will teach in the spring)  went to the University of Jordan we had an appointment with the Dean of Faculty of Arts, Dr. Rajai Khanji. Hussein and Reem drove us boldly across the city to the northwest where the University is located.

It is a beautiful campus with a long avenue flanked with lovely tall cedar trees (their trunks painted white as in the South—supposedly to keep the bugs away from destroying the bark?). The buildings are white; the oldest were built around 1947, and are graceful, with curves and many windows. The grounds are hilly and beautifully landscaped. We noticed geraniums, lavender, rosemary, and tall pine trees. There was a lovely scent of cedar and pine. In the midday sun it was also hot (a dry heat).

Dr. Khanji, a linguist, was very gracious and gave Becky a choice of five courses to teach. She won’t be sure though until next week as we have to see which courses fill up. She will be teaching four. He gave Becky keys to her office and introduced us around to faculty members. He talked with Kevin about teaching a course and gave Kevin some contact names. Our meeting was punctuated with the disco music from Reem’s cell phone! The Dean did not seem to notice.

Earlier we found out that the cost of the fine apartment is too much for us so we went to see another one in the afternoon. This one is set on a high hill overlooking the University. Becky loved it, especially loved the landlady—once a home economics teacher. Lucky for us as we missed lunch at the Fulbright House, she served us delicious mango/guava juice, two kinds of small pizzas, cheesecake with chocolate frosting, figs and grapes, and coffee!  The apartment is very spacious with two big wings, the price is right, and it has all amenities. Becky is keen for it but James (with whom we are talking about sharing a better flat) has to commute to another university and the location may be a problem.

Hopefully we will have time for an internet café and buy cell phones this afternoon. For the first time Kevin thinks he may need one.

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The contents of the page have not been reviewed or approved by the University of South Carolina.