Even though there was a big northern storm warning, there were sunny intervals. We passed the watery fens and Ely Cathedral. The countryside was lovely--fields of neatly plowed very black dirt, looking more like the mushroom compost I use in SC, interspersed with fields of green rows. We saw big tractors plowing fields with birds following, maybe to eat the worms the plows were digging up? We saw graceful white windmills, leafless hedgerows, skeletal birch trees, tall wheat crops, cosy English homes many with glass greenhouse additions, ponies, cows, and fat sheep grazing.
We loved passing Durham and remembering our wonderful year (1985-86) there.
The Durham winds were sometimes so strong that it seemed dangerous to put small children down as they might blow away. Sometimes we saw a tree lying on its trunk with a huge root system showing, blown over by a big gust.
We caught a glimpse of the glorious Cathedral with the Castle to its left.
And, here we saw the Cathedral through trees which may have been the way those traveling monks from yesteryear saw it.
A conductor announced that the train could no further than Newcastle that day as bridges were out. A young family with four children were on their way to Carlisle and had to get off at Newcastle.
Yaron met us at the familiar Newcastle train station. Helen and I sometimes came over from Durham to shop. He took us to his Co-operative, a ten minute walk. (This photograph came from Google Maps.)
This Co-op was established by the government thirty years ago. It is a good affordable place for young artists who need low rents and enjoy sharing responsibilities and talents with each other. This large pumpkin-colored kitchen was the heart of the house and Yaron prepared two delicious meals for us.
A nice view from the window of a blooming rose and rose hips
We slept in a roomy garret--Mat and Debbie and their babe Oscar were away. It was pretty cold the first night but we were comfortable under 3 fat duvets.
The next day, we went with Yorun to Scrumpy Willows for breakfast (William Morris's Willow pattern decorated some of the walls). Then Yaron walked us over to the Laing Art Gallery where we saw wonderful art. The most interesting for me were paintings of the industrial and coal mining North. I once wrote a paper on Iron and Steel, a painting by William Bell Scott, an artist associated with this part of England.
Kevin loved the huge apocalyptic John Martin painting with its light show.
We walked through the streets of the old town. Newcastle has beautiful old buildings conceived by Richard Grainger and built in the 1830s. The monument in the distance has Earl Grey on the top!
We walked down to the Quayside. What is most memorable to me about this city are the stunning bridges that cross the Tyne River.
We crossed the Millenium Bridge to get to the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art in an old flour mill (reminded me of Adluh Flour Mill in Columbia).
I follow the guy in the Spiderman Jacket--he is easy to spot!
What a treat this gallery is with huge installations. We particularly enjoyed seeing the work of Michael Shaw with the other three Turner prize finalists. He paints contemporary scenes using airplane model paint. Somehow with that paint, he achieves amazing patina.
In addition, the Baltic has great views of the city.
Walking back we saw this silvery snaky building called the Sage Gateshead on the left (the city on this side of the Tyne is Gateshead).
And, when you are directly in front of it you see this. It is a music venue.
We continued walking back to the Co-op and saw the original new castle which named Newcastle, built by William the Conqueror's son!
We walked through this vennel to get back to the Co-op, reminding us of the many vennels in Durham. They cut through these old cities giving walkers straight paths.
We had a nice supper with Yarun. We watched Stephanie make a quiche, skillfully making and rolling the pate brisee crust first. Then off to the Star and Shadow. This is the excellent poster that Edwin Mingard designed for the event.
Yarun gave us a tour of the Star and Shadow. The seats were lovely red velvet.
I love this poster!
He showed us this prize of the theatre, an old working organ, that they use to show the old soundless films.
The Projection Room with Edwin and Christo preparing for the Event. Christo and Mat (who was not around) had been talked into going over to the Colpitt's Pub in Durham and make a tape of the music there by Helen. She had promised them a free Recipes for Disaster Book for a tape to replace the one that Kevin and I had brought back to USA. She had accidently taped over our tape and wished to replace it. They went, made a tape to send us, and had a great time there!
This is the lobby where drinks are served.
The Star and Shadow is run completely by volunteers like Dawn, Yarun,
and Stefanie who does the programming.
It was a wonderful evening. These young people are talented and gracious. We loved being with them.
The amazing and serendipitous part of the evening was seeing Rebecca and Jeremy Adamson. Rebecca was Helen's best mate the year we lived in Durham. Jeremy is her brother. Helen visited Rebecca when we were in Cambridge in 1999. I had even brought a post card she had addressed to Rebecca but had not gotten around to mailing. It had "Have a Nice Day" (American phrase that is campy with Helen's English friends) stamped on it and little drawings of things that were special to Helen and Rebecca. Rebecca was happy to get it.
Rebecca is a GP in Hexham. She has a husband and three children--the middle is seven and named Daisy!
We enjoyed the train ride home after a Great Trip!
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